Thursday, June 10, 2010

El Nuevo Gaucho
















The gaucho is an Argentine archetype, not unlike our cowboy, known for his strained duality, forever in conflict. Part savage, part noble warrior, he's known for his equestrian skills, melancholy nature, and unflinching bravery. Seldom seen but rarely ignored, his white shirt, black vest, red silk scarf and black chambergo hat are often seen from behind, since his solitary nature leads him to avoid onlookers, rather than to approach them.

Anthropologists have recently discovered a new strain of this forlorn vagabond wandering the pampas of northern Argentina. His vest, a green hooded sweatshirt, usually with a W on it, his scarf replaced with a lanyard carrying a camera or bottle of antibacterial gel, his dexterity on horseback? Questionable.

The first week of classes at La Escuela de la Plaza was filled with activity. The kids have been getting to know students at all levels by giving brief presentations about life in Atlanta, windows into their daily lives, and for the "young'ins" a demonstration of games, songs, and lullabies from their childhood. (They neglected to mention that only four years ago in my 8th grade classes did they beg me to play "Heads Up, Seven Up" during the last 10 minutes of class--they're not as old as they think.)

Today the students of Westminster and The Walker School went on a joint excursion to el campo, the countryside. They visited a tambo where cows are milked (Rafaela is one of the most productive regions of Argentina in the milk-producing industry). They also visited a casa de campo (country house) that groups and families rent for brief or extended stays to relax from their hectic world. They finished the day visiting another farm in which they were able to meet some of the locals (pigs, chickens, cows, horses, sheep, and a very affable mule). The family that rents the land for tourism and subsistence farming treated us to a DELICIOUS asado, or cookout, followed by a wagon ride.

The implicit lessons of the day were to learn about the importance of the milk and cattle industry in Santa Fe, and the region's recent efforts to promote "rural tourism," which is a very new concept in Argentina. Families usually go to the beach or the mountains for their vacations, neither of which Rafaela or Santa Fe have. So-called "rural tourism" helps to keep tourism pesos within the outlying community, and presents a model for more sustainable vacationing. They had me at asado.

A group of students arrives tomorrow with Michael Barbaro (former W faculty member) from The Trinity School in New York City. The school day will be cut short for a reception in their honor.

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